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Arched Headboard and Footboard with built on bench made of cherry and panels made with curly yellow birch.

This page list the procedures and setups used to make this headboard and foot board that incorporated a bench into the design. This allowed the footboard to become freestanding. 

Following are some photos taken during the process' involved to create this headboard and footboard with built on bench.

The reason for the bench being attached to the foot board is to allow for the footboard to be freestanding.

Side boards were not to be used and the headboard was to be attached to the metal frame.


Headboard layout


The footboard has a built on bench.



Footboard test fit


This is the rough dimensioned cherry acclimating to the shop atmosphere


This is the pattern/fixture used to do the final cut top cut of the arch with a router after roughing out with the band saw.


Stop blocks were applied to the outside arch cutting fixture and clamped to the bench.


After rough cutting the outside of the arch on the band saw the final cut is done with the router with a flush cutting router bit. The work piece was secured to the fixture with double sided carpet tape


This fixture used as a pattern and to cut the outside of the arches had to be built up thicker to enable my pattern cutting bit to cut the grooves in another fixture/cutting guide.


This is the second fixture which will secure the work piece (which will be much smaller) and have a guide for the router bearing on the flush cut router bit to follow.


The lower arch in the the work piece is then roughed out on the band saw and the final cut is again done with the router and a flush cut bit. The off cut of the lower arch was secured to the fixture with double sided tape to allow the router more area to ride on.


The wood for the panels of the bed will be Curly Yellow Birch. This is the processed I used to resaw the 12 inch wide pieces of Curly Yellow Birch into a veneer.


I needed something to help hold the 12 inch boards against the band saw fence.
I made a short feather board out of 5/4 stock and drilled a 1/2" hole in the end which is slightly larger than the rod that is attached to my dial indicator base.
I used duct tape (think Red Green) to hole the feather board on the rod. The duct tape has enough flexibility that it  allows the feather board to adjust the work piece as the board is being run through the saw.


This is the method I used to make the panels for the headboard and footboard of the bed


I used 1/4 inch for the core with the grain running in the opposite direction as the curly yellow birch i was to apply to it.


After applying the glue to the panel I taped the sandwich on the sides and ends to keep thm from moving and laid them on a piece of 3/4 inch plywood on the floor.


Then stacked another sandwiched panel on top of the first one


With waxed paper between the two panels I laid another piece of plywood on top of the pile


The applied my sophisticated clamping system until the glue setup.

Using a pattern bit in the router I cut the half lap in the styles using the arched rails as the pattern


This is the spacer I used to set the correct distance of the arched pattern to the line on the style to be half lapped.


This is the setup for cutting the 7 1/2 degree angle and 45 degree bevel for the moldings that attach to the inside of the bed post.


This is the result of the prior setup


This is with the lower side cut to fit the arch



This molding attaches to the bed post and will be a stop for the curly yellow birch panels that will be inserted into the openings.


This is the setup used to rout out the back of the headboard and footboard to accept the curly yellow birch panels


Corners of the frames have been squared out to accept the curly yellow birch panels


These are the panels that will be installed into the footboard frame


These are the 1/4" x 1/4 inch moldings that will be used to hold the panels in the openings from the back.


There are 80 pieces of molding to cut which will equate to 160 angle cuts.
These angles are 48-3/4 degrees and  41-1/2 degrees


A jig was made to use with a handsaw for the small moldings. This is a much better way to cut small moldings than using the electric miter saw because of the flexing of the molding that extends past the saw fence.

 


The angles on the jig where cut on the power miter saw then nailed on a scrap piece of plywood with an air nail gun. This allows the kerfs to be adjusted to the saw blade thickness.
This particular handsaw cuts on the pull stroke so the molding is supported buy the fence.


Installing the cap on the footboard


The bench was constructed using dovetail and mortise and tenon joinery.